When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). Thank you so much for your follow-up. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. It does this with the engine off. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. All times are GMT-6. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. When I shut it off then start it A simple remove & clean will remedy this . What would cause the idle to faulter like that? If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. The IAC going to 30 is normal. Thanks in advance for any advice. It runs perfectly fine other wise. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! Comp. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) That is what I really respect about Holley. to. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, Thanks. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. If you use your handheld to go here: But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. 2. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. If this is the case then I would look particularly close at the IAC hold position and IAC ramp start.Let us know what you find and what works for you! A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. One of the best Ive seen so far. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. It's all part of the adventure! I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Please help. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. 34K views 1 year ago Holley Sniper How to Set The IAC Idle air Control in 5 minutes or less. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. TPS% = 1 I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. Definitely not 90. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. The first place my eyes go when there is any issue with the idle is to the TPS value. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. Holley have given a new unit. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. Featured Products EFI - Fuel Injection $2.59 - $6,499.95 2179 Products View Parts Sensors I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. Glad to hear that things are working well! With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. You can adjust this number up or down but there is really no need to change it unless the car is stalling.The sucking sound is just what happens when the Sniper EFI System is paired with certain intake manifolds. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. :-). >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. back to trying to zero down an idle. The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. Super helpful and knowledgeable. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. I am right back to where I started. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. Data logs show no EMI/RFI. Idle : IAC Rampdown : IAC hold positionChange this by maybe 2% in either direction. Your AFR is pegged lean. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. Ok, so I'm stumped! NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. What should I be looking at to calm this down? Great work, expert! The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. Overview. But before you adjust the ECU to lean the idle out, first confirm that your fuel pressure is right. You advise would be greatly appreciated. I have verified that there are no vacuum leaks, not to mention the car runs to good to have a vacuum leak bad enough to make this noise. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. From herethe cycle continues and I am The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. The distributor was loose. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. Not that I noticed. What can I do? I have a Holley Sniper EFI with HyperSpark ignition. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) The "Gauge Text" is what would be shown on a 2-1/16 gauge or the Avenger handheld display. The window you saw in the image above pops up. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. Throttle body mounted ECU - no extra boxes to mount. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight.
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